Today we are looking at The Congo Tetra and The Long-fin Tetra. Amongst others and thought we would look at how we could not only put these two amazing fish in a tank together.
But as they are both from Africa how about finding some more African tankmates. Some African plant shrubs etc to really show off these amazing fish let’s put together an African Bio tank!.
LOOKING AT THE CONGO TETRA AND ITS HABITAT!
So let us start well at the beginning!
we need to know a little bit more about our fish. We can decide what size tank we will need and what conditions suit these fish.
The best tank mates we can put in the tank with them and the best vegetation. What decor and we will need to know more about substrate filtration heating and lighting this will, of course, help us decide on tank mates!.
We already know the style of tank African Bio Tank!. But what do we mean by “African Bio Tank” Well let’s start by explaining this first!.
African as we will only be chosen as best we can items that originate from Africa itself?. Bio tank is more the conditions trying to keep things as exact as possible to the natural habitat from which the fish came.
(Although we realise all our fish have been bred in captivity these days but you get the point)(lol). (>) So let’s start with the Congo Tetra and its habitat etc this fish is found in the Zaire River.
A region of the upper Congo Basin. They are found in streams, tributaries, pools, and marshes with slightly acidic and murky waters.
These habitats have tall vegetation around the margins and sandy bottoms, or in slow-moving pools.
The substrate can be thickly layered with silt and mud. This gives us a bit to work with when putting our tank together!.
MORE ON CONGO TETRA-HABITAT!
So we know now more about the water and a bit about the substrate. what about plants decor etc – For the Congo Tetra/ Long-fin Tetra and other tankmates showcased here today.
we will be using a substrate of river sand to be precise Senegal sand. ( Brown and black mix) with a layer of Nutribase underneath (this will give all the nutrients needed for our planted plants.)
After some “Aquascaping” find what works. For you are sure to put slightly more sand and Nutribase underneath in the area, you want to be heavily planted!.
Next place some pebbles as we will need hiding areas for our fish. Then we are going to put some wood in to resemble the natural driftwood from within the rivers and streams these fish are found (we suggest Sumatran wood.)
Pro tip soak the wood before using it! Wood is soaked for the week prior to setting up the tank. This removes the worst of any tannic acids that can leach from it. As well as ensures it will not float when placed in the aquarium.
Water is changed daily on the wood during this stage. After soaking the wood place it at bottom of the tank add some Bolbitis and tie gently around the wood. The roots will bind themselves to the wood in time and look amazing.
Then we can plant some plants yay!. We would go for a mix here of Crinum, Callamistratum, African water fern, Anibus Vallisneria and Eleocharis. Obviously, you can pick and choose here what works for you.
WATER CONDITIONS FOR OUR TANK?
The water conditions will need to be pretty accurate for the types of fish in mind. We are looking at congo tetra, long-fin tetra and other fish that we will look at in a bit.
We need to be specific to their needs which in this case is a temperature of 77-81f 25-27c with a ph of 7-7.5 (so small margins of error.)
Ammonia and nitrite are nil, while nitrate runs at between 10 and 20ppm. After water changes of 30% weekly, a range of plant fertiliser is added.
Easycarbo is used bi-daily at 5ml measures. No CO2 is used! With water hardness of between only 6-10. We are using a 180-litre tank for this which is 36 gallons!.
LOOK AT OUR FISH!
Now we have our tank ready obviously we need to cycle the tank. If you follow the instructions you should be ready in a few weeks. You can speed the process up by adding some media to the water but keep checking daily.
You can, of course, run a filter from a cycled tank to help speed the process up!. Anywho The Congo Tetra the Long-fin Tetra and the tankmates we have chosen for this tank.Silhouette (upside-down catfish) Cichlid buffs and a Butterflyfish.
STARTING WITH THE CONGO TETRA!
The congo tetra scientific name: Phenacogrammus Interruptus This fish was first described by Boulenger in 1899.
The Congo Tetra has a full-bodied typical tetra shape with rather large scales. Males have lush fins, with the dorsal, anal, and tail fins sporting long veiled edges, and the middle portion of the tail fin becomes extended.
Males will reach about 3 1/3 inches (8.5 cm) in length, and females will reach about 2 1/3 inches (6 cm). They have a lifespan of between 3 to 5 years in the home aquarium.
When mature, the Congo Tetra has an incredible array of colours running along the body from front to back. They are blue on top, changing to red down through the middle into a yellow-gold.
Then back to blue just above the belly. The fins are greyish violet with white edges. They need to be kept in groups to keep themselves in check and preferably equal groups of males and females.
AFRICAN LONG-FIN TETRA!
So The African long-fin tetra. Scientific name: Brycinus lLongipinnis: this little beauty is (not so little and is one of the biggest tetras.)
From The Gambia to the Democratic Republic of the Congo. What about looks? Silver with green/brown iridescent sheen. Short yellow-orange and black bands on the caudal peduncle. The top part of the eye is yellow-orange.
This is a beautifully coloured fish!
They are between 4.5-5 inches in length around 11-12.5cm and are also schooling fish so groups of around six. And they love the bio tank-style conditions we are setting out in this post today!.
It is best to feed them what they can eat within three minutes or small portions 2 times a day the same as most tetra. Tetra, on the whole, refuse to eat from the bottom of the tank they are considered mid feeders.
They eat similarly to all tetra blood worms, brine shrimp, and water flea. You can also add any other artificial feed into the diet. The long-fin lives for around six-seven years. (not too shabby for tetra.)
The long-fin is also known as the Alestes Tetra and is a relatively large and outgoing African species. That is a remarkable aquarium fish that will bring great activity to the community and planted aquarium!.
This fish can be shy. With lots of open swimming rooms and some hiding places and dark substrate and low lighting will do great!
WHAT ABOUT THOSE TANKMATES!
We have our tankmates as mentioned above let’s delve straight in with one of the smallest members of the Synodontis species! the upsidedown catfish.
UPSIDEDOWN CATFISH:
The upside-down catfish’s scientific name: is Synodontis Nigriventris. This fish is smaller than most catfish and is also named the dwarf catfish. They grow to around four inches or 10cm in length they are called upsidedown catfish for obvious reasons. They swim upside down this is because they tend to feed on the surface.
Although they can swim right side up and often will. Especially while erm feeding on the bottom. They have a lifespan of around five years. In the wild these fish will feed on insects and will also graze on the underside of logs, Branche’s swimming upside down makes this much easier (they are also algae eaters)
This awesome little fish has big eyes a large adipose fin a forked tail and three sets of barbels! (barbels are like cat’s whiskers hence the name catfish) Its body is covered in dark brown almost black dots or blotches of varying sizes with the body itself being a light brown.
And of course, it’s from Africa central Africa from the Congo River and Cameroon and will do really well in our tank we are setting up here.
AFRICAN RED EYE TETRA:
The African red eye tetra!
scientific name: Arnoldichthys spilopterus!. This fish comes from Nigeria and loves branches roots plants etc, Same as our other tankmates.
It’s an unfussy eater and will accept all the usual Tetra feeds!. They grow to around four inches around 10cm and have large scales. particularly large for tetra.
They live for between four and six years. It has an overall silver body but develops very noticeable blue, green, and yellow colouration as it matures.
Males have a yellow or orange anal fin with five dark bands. The females have a clear anal fin with a few dark spots. Tops of the eye are very red (hence the name.)
They have a yellow and black dorsal fin which is edged in white amazingly colourful fish.
KRIBENSIS CICHLID:
The Kribensis is known as a dwarf cichlid. Reaching three to four inches around no more than ten cm. This fish is from the southern waters of Nigeria and into Cameroon.
They are known by the names Purple Cichlid, and Palette Cichlid. Were first spoken off in 1913 by Christian Bruening!.
They have a variety of different colours ranging from Yellow to Red, Green and Blue. There’s also an Albino version they have a lifespan very similar to the rest of our tank.
Kribensis females have a bright red belly when ready to ha hem mate which males find irresistible. (Apparently, males find the Albino females even more attractive.)
This is probably because the redness is even more eye-catching upon the Albino!. This fish is more of a bottom dweller and should be fed some foods that will sink and stay on the bottom including some vegetation.
BUTTERFLYFISH:
The curious-looking African Butterfly Fish. Originates from the calm waters of creeks, swamps and slow-moving parts of rivers. Where they inhabit the area just underneath the water’s surface.
They are excellent jumpers, so the aquarium MUST have tight-fitting cover slides to prevent accidental escape. In the wild, the African Butterfly Fish feeds on small fish, crustaceans, aquatic larvae & nymphs.
As well as terrestrial insects (hence their position in the water column and their ability to jump.) The aquarium that houses these fish should not be filled right to the top.
Instead, it is suggested that the water level is dropped approx 15cm (6″) or so from the top of the tank. The aquarium should incorporate a good amount of aquatic plants.
With an open area in the centre for the fish to freely rest near the surface. The lighting should not be too bright, and the tank should be furnished with dark decor.
Butterflyfish continued
The footprint of the tank (length and width) is much more important than the height. To give the fish as much surface area as possible.
It is also a good idea to install a blue moonlight to switch on just before the main lights go off. So that you can spend a few hours observing this crepuscular.
(Active at dusk and at dawn) species when it is at its most active. More than one specimen may be kept in the same aquarium if the tank is spacious enough.
Tankmates must be chosen with care. As many will find the long trailing pelvic fin rays of the African Butterfly Fish rather tempting to nibble at.
Small fish can also become an easy snack as this species has a deceptively capacious mouth. Many successful aquarists find that keeping their Butterfly Fish with peaceful bottom-dwellers such as Corydoras catfish works very well. Excellent water quality is essential for this species to thrive.